When the owners of a restaurant that was a pioneer in revitalizing a run-down part of town retire after two decades, the obvious way to fill the vacuum might be to find new owners to maintain the tradition. The bolder, but perhaps more successful, approach is to acknowledge that times have changed and a new direction might be the best way forward. That’s what has occurred at the north end of downtown Phoenix, where one of the original Roosevelt Row establishments, Carly’s, recently closed after twenty years and was replaced by newcomer Industry Standard.
Industry Standard is located two blocks east of Roosevelt/Central station on the B Line in a modest building that predates the slew of multi-story apartment buildings that now line the corridor. Bike racks are found outside on Roosevelt, as well as around the corner on Second Street. A patio wraps around the building, effectively doubling the capacity of the restaurant’s compact dining room. Inside, the restaurant retains the scrappy, DIY feel of its predecessor. The furnishings have been updated, but the art is still local and the decorations delightfully random.
While Industry Standard is not a dramatic departure in terms of aesthetics, it pursues a culinary approach that is decidedly not Carly’s 2.0. Instead of a light all-day menu of sandwiches and salads, the newer restaurant has only evening service with a somewhat more hearty international menu that draws predominantly on both European and Asian influences with a bit of the Americas represented as well. It’s a succinct one-page bill of fare that changes with the seasons while retaining a few fan favorites and weekday specials throughout the year.
There is no clear segmentation between appetizers and entrees. Instead, there is a gradual progression from lighter and more easily shared items towards others that might fulfill traditional conceptions of main dishes. A plate full of Noble focaccia and honey whipped ricotta is generous with six big slabs of the airy bread and an ample supply of creamy spread to go with it. Confit tomatoes are tangy and vibrant with accompaniments of the same soothing ricotta and some slices of the familiar focaccia, as well as some pesto, served in a different context.
A Caesar salad sometimes seems a perfunctory presence on local menus, but Industry Standard’s version is an umami bomb that benefits from an extra bit of explosive power from lemon breadcrumbs. An asparagus and snap pea salad is a successful mix of different tastes and textures with flavors sharpened by sprigs of Italian parsley and leaves of mint, as well as slices of onion, all intermingling with the crisp textures of the asparagus and snap peas. Whipped goat cheese on the bottom provides soothing contrast with the stronger tastes above.
A poke bowl combines tuna and salmon in roughly equal proportions with typical accompaniments of pickled ginger, cucumber, red onion, scallions, cilantro, and edamame. The only potential issue with the dish is the rice, which varied from perfectly cooked on one visit to slightly underdone on another. Another east Asian bowl is the dan dan noodles with traditional ingredients like ground pork and chopped peanuts. This dish delivers a powerful burst of heat – not so much a burn, but instead the tingly, numbing sensation associated with Sichuan pepper.
Seafood is well represented by entrees like scallops, three U-10 ones, with poblano grits and halibut served on top of base of creamy risotto with snap peas and asparagus. Uncooked selections include hamachi crudo and shrimp ceviche. During the cooler half of the year, wintry entrees like a sort of deconstructed chicken pot pie with a tile of flaky pastry over a stew of poultry and vegetables are likely to be encountered. Charred broccolini with a smooth coating of romesco sauce and breadcrumbs for a little crunch is a worthwhile side with any entree here
Two pasta dishes have been consistently present on the menu. One features more broccolini with crumbled sausage, and the other is a simple dish of noodles in vodka sauce. The latter is paired with a Caesar salad and a bit of caviar on a potato chip for a weekday special known as “Girl Dinner.” It has become so popular that Wednesday night is often busier than weekends. A counterpart “Boy Dinner” event involves a jumbo hot dog and something called a “pepperoni dipper.” Both seem appropriate for an event that might be considered a sausage party.
Desserts also change with the seasons. A lemon olive oil cake features a moist base with abundant berries on top. Ube cheesecake is an intense purple slice of sweetness balanced with a salted caramel drizzle. A favorite at all times is a brown butter chocolate chip cookie skillet. These desserts in a pan have become popular lately, but Industry Standard’s version is well above average with sweet and salty flavors, as well as the warmth of the cookie and the cooling effect of a scoop of ice cream, combining effectively into an unexpectedly nuanced dessert.
The bar is small but turns out cocktails like the Human Fund, Seinfeldian wordplay describing a smoky mescal drink, and the Friend Zone, which features mezcal with cilantro, lime, and pineapple. Two tap handles feature a Mexican lager and Wren House’s Spellbinder on draft. There is also a small but well chosen selection of wine by either the bottle or the glass. Carly’s role in the history of Roosevelt Row should be remembered fondly. Not content to be a mere sequel in the same franchise, Industry Standard is finding its own niche in this strategic space.
128 E. Roosevelt St., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://industrystandardaz.com
PHX Rail Food 