The Italian word “dolce” translates into English as “sweet” in both senses of the word: a sugary flavor and a gentle disposition. With that in mind, the most dolce place of all could be an Italian bakery cafe, a place that serves baked goods made on site along with coffee and a selection of food. That model prevails at several chains, both local and national in scope, but it’s especially welcome when it takes the form of an independent, family-run business. In the ground floor of the Derby apartment tower in downtown Phoenix, Dolce Italia by MEKK fills that niche.
Dolce is at Second Street and McKinley, four blocks from Roosevelt/Central station on the B Line. Bike racks are found directly outside along McKinley. The cafe is immediately visible due to its colorful signs with both pictures and words advertising its specialties in terms of pastry, pasta, and pizza. Although the Derby’s stucco walls and slapdash parking podium make it one of the least attractive high-rises in Phoenix, Dolce works overtime to undo any aesthetic damage at street level with a surfeit of selfie-worthy colorful decor in a floral theme.
The patio along Second Street is colorful enough with blue-cushioned chairs, although the lack of shade and mist makes this outdoor space appealing only during about half the year. The compact interior is even more resplendent with arcs of flowers, colorful furniture with metallic accents, and even a pink phone booth that looks sort of like a feminine version of Dr. Who’s Tardis. The cafe operates informally with an order-at-the-counter model, although the slower pace of service is consistent with both the cadence and quality of a full-service restaurant.
To understand Dolce, it’s important to know a few key details. First, the initialism at the end of the cafe’s full name, MEKK, is formed from the names of the four members of the family (a couple and their children) who own and operate the business. Second, the family in question is of Albanian, rather than Italian, heritage. Since Albanian cuisine has limited exposure in the United States, it’s an understandable business move to focus on food found across the Adriatic Sea. Nevertheless, a few Albanian influences find their way into the kitchen here.
One of these Balkan-tinged dishes in the Pasta Tirana, named for the capital of Albania. A wide, colorful ceramic bowl is replete with wide ribbons of pappardelle in a sauce characterized primarily by tomato and sausage with shaved parmesan and fresh basil leaves. The other pasta dishes are equally satisfying. The Vienna ravioli are soft and supple with a filling of ricotta and not quite enough spinach in a brown butter sauce, and the Roma tortellini blends both tangy tomato and creamy essences in the sauce that surrounds these cheese-filled pillow of pasta.
Lasagna alla ragu is a hearty classic with underlying layers of noodles, ricotta, and bechamel and a meat sauce on top. A final pasta entree is creamy chicken Chardonnay pasta with shiitake mushrooms and gorgonzola. All the pasta dishes are oversized, so much so that a wish list for this place might involve half sizes with a side salad as a more manageable meal. Almost everything here is offered in abundance with sharing or taking leftovers home often a necessary outcome due to the cafe’s big bowls and generously proportioned pizzas and sandwiches.
The MEKK special sandwich features a crusty baguette filled with melted Swiss raclette cheese, arugula, pickles, and prosciutto in an intriguing and successful combination. Like most sandwiches, here, it is beautifully presented with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar over the bread. A turkey sandwich starts with thinly sliced roast poultry and gains flavor from a “chef sauce” that seems like a remoulade. The Sicilian is an open-faced creation with slices of eggplant, cheese and tomato, and a croissant sandwich can be filled with either ham or smoked salmon.
Pizzas are available in either 12 or 16-inch diameters. The MEKK special pie stands out with its duo of sauces, tomato and pesto, supporting a generous layer of creamy mozzarella with toppings of prosciutto, arugula, and spicy peppers. Other options include all-vegetable and all-meat pies, as well as Buffalo chicken and simple classics like pepperoni or a Napoli pizza with tomato sauce, cherry tomatoes, and sprigs of arugula. The base of all the pizzas is a relatively thick crust that is consistent with Dolce’s extensive array of pastry offerings.
Even with MEKK’s big portions, it is worthwhile to try to save room for some dessert from the display cases of baked goods. What they contain will vary from one day to another, but there are some predictable patterns, as well as unexpected twists. Tiramisu is always present, sometimes a classic version but at other times an alternative such as a bright, tart variety made with limoncello. Pies may include strawberry or key lime. Sometimes there will be a Greek offering like a big dish of Galaktoboureko, a combination of phyllo dough and a custard filling.
Cookies are offered in trios packaged to go: one dark chocolate sandwiched between two classic chocolate chip ones. The cookies and pastry are best enjoyed with a cappuccino from the cafe’s espresso bar. Cold drinks include iced tea, lemonade, and a case full of sparkling waters and sodas. There is no liquor license at this time. With its friendly staff, indulgent pastry, and colorful decor, Dolce Italia expresses its sweetness in multiple ways, offering a bit of cheer and charm amid the high-rise apartment towers growing throughout the north end of Downtown.
PHX Rail Food 