If there’s a major intersection that speaks to unrealized potential, it’s the corner of Indian School Road and Central Avenue at the north end of Midtown. On the northeast corner, a massive development serving as a gateway to Steele Indian School Park has yet to break ground, and the apartment complex across the street looks great from the corner but becomes a monotonous monolith as it continues all the way to Third Avenue. The forlorn southwest corner is mostly vacant lots with one small exception: a Japanese fast food restaurant called Yoshi’s.
Yoshi’s, one of three locations of a small local chain, has been at this location since 1996 after being relocated from an adjacent site where it first opened in 1989. The building shows plenty of wear, including a missing “Y” on one of the signs. Whether it’s Yoshi’s or Oshi’s, this restaurant has endured long past the time when one would have expected its standalone building to be demolished in favor of more intensive development. With this crossroads seemingly stalled, it is possible to enjoy inexpensive meals of teriyaki and other dishes of east Asian inspiration here.
Yoshi’s is across the street from Indian School / Central station on the B Line. The nearest bike racks are found across the street outside the oversized Callia apartment development. Just as with the restaurant’s exterior, the inside looks like it’s overdue for an update. Seating is abundant, and windows offer a view of Central Avenue, but the decor is minimal. Customers approach a counter with menus overhead and to the side. This is purely a fast food operation, so it’s best to stay close to the counter to hear a number called when an order is ready.
The menu is mostly derived from Japanese-American traditions with some added Chinese touches. For the most part, it’s familiar fast fare of the type that can be found at countless places. Teriyaki is the most obvious starting point. It’s a serviceable version with a sauce that exhibits a good balance of flavors but not as much depth as one would hope for from extended marination and grilling. To add a little something extra to the meal, upgrade with some optional vegetables instead of ordering the combo. The egg roll added with that deal is nearly flavorless.
In terms of fried appetizers, the crab puffs and gyoza are a little better, although the latter are somewhat brittle and underfilled. It’s generally best to bypass them and proceed straight to the rice and noodle bowls that constitute the core of the menu. Yoshi’s sukiyaki benefits from the addition of bell peppers, sliced onions, and an unexpected bonus of cubes of tofu that costar with the thinly sliced beef. Curry chicken is an effective version of a standard Japanese fast food dish with tender chicken, carrots, and onions covered generously in a dark, mild sauce.
Where Yoshi’s does best is with dishes that blend some Asian and Southwestern influences. The Viva Caliente bowl features chicken in a spicy sauce that burns slowly at first and then builds in intensity. Toppings of cilantro and onions add to the bowl’s regional flavor and flair. A strenuous approach to spice is also evident in some noodle dishes. Spicy hibachi chicken is indeed fiery, mostly from garlic chili sauce. There is a fair amount of heat, but also some nuance lurking beneath the fire that envelops grilled chicken and bell peppers with wheat noodles.
More noodles are found in the form of thick udon, served in soup with vegetables and tempura shrimp, which appear to be coated in panko breadcrumbs rather than a more traditional flour batter. Yakisoba is in a dark, semi-sweet sauce with vegetables and grilled chicken. Hiyahsi ramen salad has been a recent summer special. A bowl of lettuce is topped with cucumber, avocado, edamame, chicken, and the type of ginger-tinged salad dressing typically served in American Japanese restaurants. The result is light and refreshing during summer heat.
Given the basic, no-frills theme here, there is no dessert listed on the menu. Drinks are limited to the soda fountain and a variety of iced teas. Combine the absence of sweets and alcohol with bargain prices on specials and a happy hour teriyaki deal, and it’s hard to spend more than $20 on a meal here. With so much potential for development at the site of Yoshi’s and surrounding parcels, it is easy to envision a time when a much larger building will occupy this corner, possibly with additional dining options in ground floor retail space. Until then, Yoshi’s will do.
4050 N. Central Ave., Phoenix AZ 85012
https://www.yoshisonline.com
PHX Rail Food 