It has now been over two decades since “Napoleon Dynamite,” a quirky film about a quirky character of the same name, became an unexpected and enduring favorite. While there are so many motifs that have endured from that movie, two in particular are associated with food: quesadillas (with the double L mispronounced gringo style) and tater tots, which are a surreptitious school snack kept in the main character’s pants pocket. Just like the film, those foods have endured, and both are available at Dilla Libre’s latest location in central Phoenix.
Dilla Libre started as a food truck celebrating the quesadilla, the popular Mexican specialty involving a tortilla folded around cheese which melts as the construct is heated, and introducing cross-cultural variations from Thai, Vietnamese, and American traditions. What was once a mobile operation has since expanded to multiple fixed locations, and the newest one is found five blocks west of McDowell/Central station on the B Line. A previous tenant removed the bike racks on an exterior wall, but a freestanding one is found by the Five Guys franchise next door.
A sign with bold colors and luchador imagery marks Dilla Libre’s location on McDowell, and that decorative theme is repeated inside the dining room but does not dominate it. In addition to paintings of masked wrestlers, there are star-shaped lanterns and mirror balls overhead, as well as a wall of turntables left behind by a prior tenant. To match those record players, music is almost always played on the speakers – sometimes country, sometimes pop – but not necessarily Mexican. The bar connects the dining room and a shaded patio facing McDowell.
The decorations and sounds in the restaurant reflect a mix of national origins, and so does the menu. To be sure, quesadillas are at the heart of the menu, but the fillings that go inside them draw inspiration from all over the world. Nevertheless, all meals start in traditional American Mexican restaurant fashion with a complimentary basket of chips and a mild-to-medium red salsa. An habanero one is available as an alternative, and it’s not only hotter, but also complex with tangy and smoky notes augmenting the chili heat. Guacamole is available at added cost.
Other appetizers include fried cauliflower and elote, available either on the cob or in a cup. Both items reappear later in the menu, so little is lost if proceeding directly to a quesadilla or another entree. The word “libre” means free in Spanish, and it does seem like the restaurant is trying to set the quesadilla free from convention. That begins with the preparation. Dilla Libre not only stuffs the tortilla, it surrounds it with cheese on the griddle. The result is a sort of supernova with a core of tortilla and an outer ring of crisped cheese and a diffuse boundary between the two.
The innovation continues with other ingredients inside the folded tortillas. Chipotle chicken contains breast meat marinated in citrus and smoked chilies with pico de gallo, crema, and jack cheese. It’s a good place to start, but further adventure awaits with a California quesadilla that incorporates carne asada and fries. To honor the movie that honored the quesadilla, Dilla Libre actually has a Napoleon Dynamite quesadilla on its menu. In this case, the fries are replaced with, naturally, tater tots. Some Asian influences are found in the banh mi and Thai quesadillas.
All variants of the restaurant’s signature version of the quesadilla can be reinterpreted as bowls or burritos with the same ingredients presented in different formats. Tacos are available with ingredient mixes adjusted suited to corn tortillas. Classic fillings such as carne asada, chipotle chicken, and carnitas, are augmented with shrimp tacos and Vietnamese and Thai-inspired options with pickled root vegetables, cilantro, and serrano peppers. A meatless choice is the papa verde tacos, which contain fried potatoes, green chilies, pico de gallo, and cotija cheese.
For those who seek additional choices without meat or even dairy, there is an entire flip side to the menu with abundant vegan options. Some of those are based on plant-based products from purveyors like Beyond Meat, but two of the best options are produced in house. The same crispy cauliflower offered as an appetizer can function as an effective tortilla filling, and chickpea chorizo is also a strong choice. The legumes are mashed into rough patties, seasoned, and fried, resulting in something that celebrates chickpeas without trying too hard to imitate meat.
Tacos are normally sold in trios or quartets all with the same filling. On taco Tuesdays, however, they are discounted and sold individually, offering an opportunity to sample any of the different types before making a long-term commitment or just to enjoy some mix-and-match variety. On weekends, a brunch menu is also available. Although the regular menu at Dilla Libre can seem expansive with quesadillas and tacos, the dessert menu is succinct with just two options: chocolate chip cookies and churros that can be augmented with chocolate sauce as desired.
Sweet drinks include aquas frescas – not only the usual horhata and jamaica, but also an original creation known as Dragon’s blood, a blend of pineapple, strawberry, and coconut water. Margaritas are available plain or enhanced with fruit flavors such as strawberry or mango with a Tajin rim. Beer and wine augment the bar, and additional non-alcohol choices include iced tea and bottled Mexican sodas. Despite rumors and wishful thinking, the film “Napoleon Dynamite” has never been followed by a sequel, but quesadillas and tater tots endure at Dilla Libre.
PHX Rail Food 