The city of Phoenix takes its name from the mythical bird, a creature reborn from its own ashes. Originally that concept referred to settlers of European ancestry building a city in the Salt River Valley, where the indigenous Hohokam people had lived before inexplicably vanishing. Since then, it has come to represent a place where people and institutions are continuously reinventing themselves. One of the latest manifestations of a Phoenix rising from its ashes is the reinvention of Durant’s, the classic steak and seafood restaurant on Central Avenue in Midtown.
After three-quarters of a century in business, the restaurant seemed to suffer from a case of long COVID, never fully regaining its glory after a mandated pandemic closure. Then, it was closed during most of 2025 after an acquisition by its new owners, Prime Steak Concepts, the Mastro family company that revamped and updated the restaurant in time for an end-of-year reopening. The result is a restoration and revitalization that is not quite the same old Durant’s but instead a Mastro-style steakhouse that has updated the space’s classic look and menu.
The new Durant’s has closed its front entrance facing Central. Although that entry was seemingly ideal for customers arriving on foot from nearby Encanto/Central station on the B Line, using the rear entrance via the kitchen has always been part of the Durant’s experience. The longstanding ritual here involves seeing the staff at work, many of whom take the time to greet customers even as they juggle hot plates and bulky trays. A bike rack is found outside the back door of Princess Pita, a neighboring restaurant that shares a parking lot with Durant’s.
For those who didn’t see enough on the way in, the restaurant’s two dining rooms have been augmented with a new space featuring a window looking directly into the kitchen. The bar counter has been lowered and widened to create a more comfortable space for solo diners or groups without reservations. The flooring has been replaced, and the red leather upholstery and flock wallpaper have been updated. Although it is no longer functional, an old school rotary phone booth next to the restaurant’s centrally placed host station has wisely been retained.
In another nod to Durant’s past, all dinners begin with a relish tray of chilled crudites featuring two types of olives, pickles, radishes, olive oil, whipped butter, and slices of sourdough bread. Unfortunately, the decadent leek-and-garlic coating that used to be served on top of the loaf is no longer available. Consistent with both the Mastros’ tendency towards upscale formats and our inflationary economy, The new Durant’s has adopted a more a-la-carte format than before, with items like a soup or salad and a starchy side no longer included with an entree order.
That said, the salads and appetizers are generally a worthwhile indulgence, especially in light of their generous, shareable portions sizes. Chef Lupino’s meatballs, available in either a trio or a quintet and named for the man at the helm in the new Durant’s kitchen, are tender spheres of a mixture of ground beef and pork.with a side of smooth vodka sauce. That same sauce coats a dish of rigatoni pasta and sits atop a bone-in veal parmigiana entree, reflecting a few of the newer Italian-American touches that have found their way onto the updated menu at Durant’s.
The crab cake and shrimp cocktail have made their way from the prior menu, and for anyone looking for a seafood starter, both are even stronger than before. The salads include steak house classics like a Caesar with big croutons that make it look like the Borg have assimilated romaine and a beefsteak tomato and onion salad with crumbled bleu cheese. Entrees lead, as expected, with slabs or red meat cooked at high heat and delivered sizzling to the table. Filet mignon comes in standard and petit sizes, but the best choice is the flavorful bone-in option.
Other beef options include New York and Kansas City strip steaks, and ribeye in both wet and dry-aged variants. Durant’s porterhouse has been retained in configurations meant to be shared by either two or four diners, and prime rib is available as always. Sauces like bordelaise can be added at additional cost. Seafood selections have changed somewhat with current entrees such as sea bass, lobster, salmon, and a roasted branzino. The chicken dishes from the old Durant’s menu, always sort of an afterthought, have been retired in the restaurant’s latest iteration.
Side dishes here are meant for sharing and are generally dispensed by the server who spoons some of the desired vegetables or starch onto the customer’s plate. Highlights include Brussels sprouts, scalloped potatoes, and creamy mac-and-cheese. Desserts include strawberry shortcake, another updated Durant’s classic, and Durant’s Crumble, full of pears and cinnamon. If observing an anniversary or birthday, desserts are generally customized with a celebratory message. White chocolate macadamia nut cookies are also provided as a lagniappe.
Durant’s has always been a place to enjoy a cocktail. Although a pricey $42 signature martini combining both vodka and gin vesper style appears to have been 86’d soon after reopening, the bar can make just about anything, and several martini variants like blood orange and cucumber basil enliven the drink menu. An extensive wine list covers a spectrum from approachable vintages available by the glass to premium reserve selections by the bottle. Meet the new Durant’s, not quite the same as the old Durant’s, but another rebirth in a city defined by them.
2611 N. Central Ave., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://www.durantsaz.com
