A rice mill can be a machine that can fit in a closet or fill a factory, depending on its capacity. The grain it refines is a staple in food traditions all over the world, and a new quick service restaurant called Ricemill uses it in a variety of Asian-inspired dishes. This particular rice mill fits in a space in downtown Phoenix’s Collier Center development that is somewhere between a closet and a factory in terms of its dimensions. The location is just a block from the Third Street stations on the A Line and near the Downtown Phoenix. Bike racks are found just outside.
Like its neighbors in the Collier Center’s often vacant restaurant row, Ricemill has its own patio with plenty of shade. The interior has a clean, minimalistic look in which decor is largely supplanted by efficiency. Customers order at a counter with the menu displayed in on reader boards overhead. Six signature bowls are listed, but the vast majority of customers seem to favor a Chipotle-esque build-your-own bowl approach. Either way, customers watch as the food is prepared, pay at the end of the line, and then find a seat after a stop at the beverage station.
For the DIY clientele, the first choice is a base: white rice (the default on all the signature bowls), brown rice, thick rice noodles, or a lettuce mix. Those options can also be mixed 50-50 for further customization as desired. The next step is the selection of a protein: steak, tofu, shrimp, or chicken, either roasted with garlic or served crispy with breading and some time in the fryer. After that comes an array of vegetables and sauces. This is one aspect in which picky eaters may do better. For those with more omnivorous tastes, the choices can be overwhelming.
For that reason, people without allergies or strong food aversions might do well to try some of the signature bowls. The first one listed, Seoul Garlic Chicken, is among the best choices. As the name makes obvious, the predominant influence is Korean. The poultry here is combined with Korean-style pickles, tender eggplant, sauteed spinach, corn kernels, and bean sprouts in a slightly spicy sauce. The result has a strong but not overpowering essence of garlic. The other chicken bowl, Hong Kong Crispy, is gently spiced and then mellowed with creamy sauce on top.
A meatless choice, Szechuan BBQ Tofu, is another success with a spicy marinade noticeable on the bean curd and an appealing mix of corn, cabbage, squash, and enoki mushrooms in a supporting role. There are two beef bowls, and each is distinctively flavored. One features mala spice, a classic mix of chilies and the numbing, tingling sensation of Sichuan peppercorns. Staff warn customers about the dish’s distinctive taste, and it delivers. A mashed potato ball in the bowls seems surprising at first, but also derives from northern and central Chinese cuisine.
For build-your-own bowls, the mala sauce is the one to choose for genuine heat. A much milder alternative is sweet chili. The second beef bowl is Shanghai Steak,which features a caramelized scallion sauce, abundant slices of radishes and cucumber, and a topping of fried onions for a bit of crunch. Unfortunately, both beef bowls, despite their bold flavors, are undermined by tough, chewy meat. Another partial success, the Yuzu Shrimp Bowl contains well-prepared crustaceans but is too heavy on mayonnaise and lacks noticeable tartness from citrus.
Half the signature bowls, those reliant on chicken and tofu, are unqualified successes and can be enjoyed as-is. The other three with beef or shrimp might form the basis of workable alternatives with some modifications. Replacing beef with another protein might work for those who prefer more tender meat, and the shrimp can always be accessorized with lighter sauces. There are a few other options on the menu in terms of snacks, including puffy shrimp chimps and a snack pack of popcorn chicken and housemade potato chips. Otherwise, it’s all bowls.
After a bowl, whether directly from the menu or of the customer’s own design, the one dessert option is rice pudding, which is available in three flavors: chocolate, vanilla, and Thai tea. The sweet theme is repeated with the beverage selection of fountain sodas, flavored lemonades, and milk teas. A few unsweetened choices would be a welcome addition to the menu. This first Ricemill is planned as the first step in creating a new chain. At this point, not all the links are equally strong, but given the struggles of the Collier Center, it’s still a move in the right direction.
201 E. Washington St., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://www.eatricemill.com
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