Just about everyone has heard the adage, “Don’t go grocery shopping on an empty stomach.” The idea is that being hungry while in a supermarket can make a shopper susceptible to budget-busting impulse purchases. Despite the wisdom of this recommendation, compliance can be a challenge when someone doesn’t have time to eat before shopping or develops an appetite while in the aisles. With that in mind, it’s always welcome news when a grocery has some sort of in-house eatery like the one within the Los Altos Ranch Market in South Phoenix.
Los Altos, sometimes also known by the brand name Cardenas, is one of three stores in a small, local chain of groceries oriented towards a predominantly Hispanic clientele. This particular location of the supermarket in South Phoenix is just across the street from Southern/Central station on the B Line, where it dominates a shopping center on the northeast corner. Despite the size of the retail development, there is no bike rack on the premises. The nearest one is found outside the nearby Ocotillo Library, half a block to the west on Southern.
The market here follows a pattern seen in many Hispanic stores with a central core of grocery aisles surrounded not only by meat, produce, and dairy departments, but also an in-house panaderia for baked goods and another area where fresh tortillas are made. At Los Altos, the cocina, or kitchen, is situated near the last two, just to the right as customers enter the store. Picnic tables define a zone of shared seating for customers who wish to enjoy their food on sight, and two intersecting counters display the items that are available for customers to order.
There is a menu overhead, but it’s incomplete and not necessarily up-to-date. To make matters a little more confusing, the food in the steam table pans is not labeled. The only way to really know what’s available here is to talk to the staff. Employees vary in their level of English, but at least one bilingual person is usually on duty, and some gestures, pointing, and patience can go a long way here. The food is generally divided into two categories: made-to-order tacos, burritos, and tortas on the right, and hot guisados, mostly stews and soups, on the left.
For a taco, burrito, or taco, customers join the line on the right, indicate a choice of meat and a preferred format: on top of small corn tortillas, wrapped in a big flour tortilla, or sandwiched within a telera. Taco fillings on any given day might include pollo asado, tripas, and carne asada. The last choice is often available both plain and in an alternative version with pico de gallo already mixed into the meat. Quesadillas, although not listed on the overhead menu, are not only possible, but popular here, and the pico-infused beef is a good choice for a filling.
Whatever the selection, the finished product is garnished and plated with rice and beans as desired. Squeeze bottles of red and green salsas are also provided with the former being the hotter. For most part, items are accessorized with cilantro and onions if requested; however, the tortas add a generous application of mayonnaise and shredded cabbage. Beans, if desired, can be smeared onto the inside of the telera rather than served separately on the side. These interventions add a bit of heft and complexity to these hearty Mexico City style sandwiches.
The left-hand counter houses fried chicken and a steam table full of pans of prepared foods ready to be served with rice, beans, and tortillas. Selections can vary but usually include favorites like beef and chicken caldos, hearty soups with their respective meats floating in flavorful broths with big hunks of vegetables like corn, carrots, squash, and potatoes. A small plastic bag is added on the side with minced cilantro and onions ready to add more flavor. Beyond soups, the trays usually may sometimes include thicker stews like menudo and pozole.
The chili verde is always available and an understandably popular choice. Tender pieces of pork with a mouth feel reminiscent of carnitas swim in a green medium hot sauce. The birria is made with shredded beef in a dark, ruddy broth, and chiles rellenos are stuffed full of molten cheese. The sleeper hit at the steam table is another meatless choice, a colorful stew of nopales cooked with tomatoes and onions. The result is similar to a fajita vegetable mix with the cactus pads taking the place of bell peppers with a similar texture and their own slightly tangier flavor.
Desserts are found elsewhere in the store, and there are a few options. First, the panadaria produces all sorts of pan dulce: cookies, pastries, and cakes that can be purchased to eat on site or take home. Across from the bakery cases, there are some slices of cheesecake, but they don’t appear to originate on site since they’re branded with the identity of a restaurant chain that features that dessert in its name. A final option is a counter where juices and aguas frescas are offered. There, it’s also possible to find tall containers of fresas con crema and arroz con leche.
This counter also has an overhead menu promising ice cream and raspados, but staff report that frozen treats are available only at the two other locations. The selection of beverages, however, is impressive with not only favorites like horchata and jamaica, but also options like a combination of spinach and pineapple. Although the layout of the cocina at Los Altos can be a bit confusing for first-time visitors, the setup and process is worth figuring out — not only to avoid shopping while hungry, but also to have some appealing Mexican food in the process.
5833 S. Central Ave., Phoenix AZ 85040
https://locations.cardenasmarkets.com/ll/us/az/phoenix/5833-s-central-ave
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