There’s a scene from a Seinfeld episode decades ago in which an old friend working at a Kenny Rogers restaurant tells Jerry that what he serves is not fast food, but instead “good food served quickly.” It may seem like a distinction without a difference, but the words speak to a difference in aesthetics if not so much food preparation. On Roosevelt Row, Lovebite Dumplings is not ashamed to call itself a “fast food concept,” but it also does not look like a typical chain franchise. Instead, it’s a single location focusing on its namesake food, steamed dumplings.
Whether fast food or “good food served quickly,” the tiny shop is found just a block east of the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. Bike racks are found on First Street, as well as outside Lovebite’s neighbor, the Theodore beer and wine bar. Lovebite was originally known as Lovesack but made a change after claims of infringement from a similarly named furniture store. The name “Lovesack” still appears in strikethrough text with “Lovebite” added next to it. The space has only enough room to order and pay. Limited seating is found at tables outside.
With fast food dumplings, an inevitable question is whether the dumplings are actually made on site or procured from an outside purveyor and then steamed to life. The answer, which Lovebite offers without shame or hesitation, is the latter. That’s fine as long as there is transparency, which there is in this case. The dumplings, which come with four different fillings of pork, chicken, shrimp, and vegetables, are presented in a takeout box over rice, noodles, greens, or a combination of them. The dumplings are served five to an order and can be mixed as well.
Among the choices, the pork and chicken are both the straightforward meat fillings one would expect. The shrimp dumplings have a more coarse texture, and the vegetable dumplings have a distinctive green color. They’re steamed just right, making them tender but not gummy. Although the dumplings are produced elsewhere, the rice is the shop’s own creation, and it stands out with stalks of lemongrass inside the cooker with the grain, which emerges with a light pink-purple color. The noodles and greens are not as unique, but they are serviceable.
The greens are typically dressed in yuzu soy dressing, which can also be used as a sauce drizzled over the dumplings. The two other sauces choices are sriracha and Kewpie mayonnaise, and staff are often happy to recommend combinations that go well with particular dumplings. Fried onions are also available as a garnish and a bit of extra flavor. Beyond dumplings, base, and sauce, there is little else to Lovebite. There is no dessert, but nearby coffee shops like Dialog or Kahvi can fulfill that need with only a few blocks’ walk involved.
There is a refrigerated case of drinks, but the selection is limited to esoteric “functional” tonics and seltzers with herbal ingredients and mushroom extracts. They’re an interesting niche, but the omission of basics like soda, juice, or tea seems like a lost opportunity. As an alternative, customers who would like beer or wine can take their food into the Theodore next door. With its placement in the heart of Roosevelt Row, Lovebite is typically quiet during the day but often busy at night when the area’s full service restaurants coexist with “good food served quickly.”
116 E. Roosevelt St., Phoenix AZ 85004
https://www.eatlovebitedumplings.com
PHX Rail Food 