The historic Gold Spot building was one of the first shopping centers established in Phoenix when it was built in 1925, but it was far from the last. Now, strip malls are found on nearly every major corner in the vast metropolitan area that has grown around the city over the past century. Still, there is value in being among the first, and the building, which was nearly demolished decades ago, has now become one of the last standing of its generation. One restaurant in the Gold Spot, First & Last, has a name that evokes the contrast between the old and the new.
First & Last is found on Third Avenue, around the corner from fellow Gold Spot tenants Lola Coffee and Pita Jungle, and just three blocks west of Roosevelt/Central station on the B Line. The protected two-way cycle track right outside the restaurant provides easy access via bike as long as the rider is careful to dodge occasional delivery and rideshare drivers who still haven’t figured out the intended purpose of bollards. Two bike racks are found along Third Avenue right outside the Gold Spot, and a larger one is found in the back of the building near the coffee house patio.
The restaurant is subtle, relying more on reputation than a strong visual appeal. Wording etched on the glass is the only overt indication of First & Last’s presence on Third Avenue, but when the weather cooperates, it’s common to see diners outside on the patio. The host station is found at the rear of the space, where staff can direct traffic not only within the restaurant itself, but also to the speakeasy-ish cocktail bar Little Debbie’s, which is located in the restaurant’s basement. First & Last has its own more prominent bar near the front of the dining room.
Above that bar is a mezzanine, which both expands the restaurant’s seating and helps to create an open, airy feel that may be surprising in light of the limited street presence of First & Last. Exposed ducts, high ceilings, potted plants, and hanging lanterns create an atmosphere that seems rooted in both a balmy Mediterranean coast and a major city urban center. An open kitchen buzzes with activity as they pass by on the way to and from tables. The staff create a sensation as they do the same while carrying some of the restaurant’s more dramatic output.
The visual appeal is particularly striking with Robb’s clams, an appetizer of bivalve mollusks served in a skillet with a sauce of fennel, white wine, herbs, butter, and chilies. Ample slices of toasted bread allow absorption of the flavors of the liquid in the pan. The clams are a consistent presence on the changing menu, as is the beet salad with walnut and spinach. Sicilian cauliflower has a satisfying char and a creamy polenta base. Back to seafood, a Dungeness crab arancini excels with flecks of crab interspersed with arborio rice and molten cheese.
If the theme seems Mediterranean, it is – to an extent. There’s certainly a large influence of Italian and Provencal cuisines, but there is also plenty of room for distinctly regional touches and American ingredients. The burrata, for example, starts with the familiar creamy cheese but replaces the more customary accompaniments of tomato and basil with the kitchen’s own creative flourishes of onion jam on top and pureed kabocha squash beneath. Abundant squares of focaccia soak up the flavors and allow this dish to be scooped and enjoyed as a hand food.
The Italian aspect of the menu is expressed with a selection of evolving pasta dishes that constitute about half the entrees at any given time. Bucatini all’amatriciana combines strands of hollow noodles with bits of guincale, red onion, pecorino, and a slightly spicy tomato sauce. A recent meatless manicotti dish turned out far lighter and brighter than one might typically expect due to the presence of copious amounts of Swiss chard within the rolled sheets of pasta. Classics like Bolognese and cacio e pepe are given their own unique interpretations here.
The other half of the entree menu focuses on meat and seafood selections. There is, not surprisingly, a steak that is consistently available, but the real excitement lies in a changing selection of fish and fowl. Plump Maine diver scallops are plated above an artichoke puree with shavings of fennel on top. Seared breast of Magret duck is served sliced and rare with a potato pancake and chestnuts seasoned with pancetta and a condiment called “good good sauce,” more like a chimichurri or chutney than the Jack in the Box item for which it is cheekily named.
A panna cotta dessert features seasonal fruit with two recent options being an intense blood orange and a more mellow poached pear. Both have been equally successful matches for the base’s supple custard texture. The restaurant’s other dessert choice is a tiramisu richly flavored with espresso, dark rum, lady fingers, cocoa, mascarpone, and orange. Playful cocktails include the Urban Sombrero, a smoky mezcal creation named for the hat featured in a classic Seinfeld episode, and the Flip Phone, rum with elements of apple, cinnamon, bergamot, and lemon.
There is also a thoughtful wine list with emphasis on French, Italian, and domestic labels, as well as a selection of draft beer featuring local craft brews. Since the restoration of the Gold Spot building, there have been several restaurants in this space, including a promising but short-lived wine bar and a pizzeria that closed before even holding its grand opening. With this history, First & Last isn’t the first place to exist here, and it may not be the last. Nevertheless, it is the best to date and the one most likely to stay around at least a while in an enduring building.
1001 N. 3rd Ave., Phoenix AZ 85003
https://www.firstandlastphx.com
PHX Rail Food 