Four decades ago, the classic comedy “Newhart” featured an oddball trio introduced as “Larry, my brother Darryl, and my other brother Daryll” with only Larry speaking until the series finale. If two mute Darryls seemed unusual enough, imagine a situation of three cousins all named Nick. These three Nicks from the Tsigaris family founded a quick service Greek restaurant chain known as Nick the Greek. Although primarily based in California, the brand’s reach now extends into Arizona with an outpost at the CityScape development in the heart of downtown Phoenix.
These three Nicks have an address on Washington Street but are actually found in the courtyard inside the western half of CityScape That location puts it close to the existing light rail stations at Washington / Central and Jefferson / First Avenue, as well as the new downtown transfer hub currently under construction. Bike racks are found in the block’s interior near the CVS drugstore, as well at the corner of First Avenue and Washington. Look for Nick the Greek next to the Urban Outfitter store, one of the more prominent tenants in this half of the complex.
Nick the Greek has no outdoor seating of its own, but there are tables in the common areas of the outdoor plaza that work with takeout food from the three Nicks. The interior is lightly decorated with a mural that demonstrates the etymological roots of words from “synchronize” to “sympathy” in the Greek language. Another wall is filled with a word cloud of words associated with the restaurant’s food. Some such as “feta” and “souvlaki” are specific to Greek cuisine while others such as “oil” and “salt” are not particularly unique, even if they are used in abundance.
The menu appears above the counter where orders are placed and begins with pita sandwiches, a natural expectation for an approach that might be considered “food court Greek” with a focus on items that are not only familiar, but also adapt well for takeout and office catering. Three types of gyros are offered: the traditional blend of beef and lamb, sliced, grilled chicken, and an indulgent pork belly gyro. Each type is combined with a sauce, usually tzatziki but mustard in the case of chicken, onion, tomatoes, and even a few fries within the bread.
Souvlaki, meat cooked on a skewer rather than a rotisserie, is available with either chicken or pork. Both have a nice level of char and flavor, but the poultry does a better job of retaining moisture and tenderness. There are two vegetarian choices. The first is falafel, which is adequate but somewhat mealy. A more unique and satisfying choice is the veggie pita, which features a mix of vegetables, including mushrooms that add layers of umami and juiciness to the sandwich. All pitas can be upgraded to a combo meal with a drink and side of fries or salad.
Beefteki, seasoned ground beef fashioned into a rectangular patty similar to kofta is the final pita option here, and there is also a Greek burger that replaces the pita bread with a brioche bun. The protein choices served wrapped in sandwiches are also available as main ingredients in even larger plates where they are combined with a choice of fries or fluffy yellow rice, a miniature Greek salad, a serving of tzatziki, and quarters of pita. The souvlaki work particularly well in this format where they can be served the same way they were cooked – on skewers.
A smaller meal without bread is found in the bowls, in which the chosen protein goes above a combination of rice and salad. A recent special reflecting the chain’s northern California origins has been something known as the Jerry Rice Bowl, named after the former football player for the San Francisco 49ers and inspired by the colors of his Bay Area team. The meal adds a little zest and spice to the usual menu selections with feta cheese, mustard sauce, and sriracha arranged in a criss-cross lattice pattern over a base of grilled chicken, vegetables, and rice.
Bowls of greenery include, unsurprisingly, a typical Greek salad full of romaine, feta, cucumbers, tomatoes, and olives. It’s a larger version of the side salad served with ptias and platters. A less commonly encountered choice here is the prasini salad, a simple preparation of romaine with feta and scallions with dill as the predominant flavor. A suitable accompaniment for any of the salads is the avgolemono soup, with chicken and rice in an eggy, thick broth seasoned with lemon. Hummus is also available as a side or appetizer with plenty of pita provided for dipping.
For dessert, the obvious choice in any Greek restaurant setting might be baklava, and Nick the Greek is no exception. Pre-packaged triangles are always waiting at the counter. While that arrangement might arouse suspicion of stale pastry, the traditional Greek bakery staple has proven to be fresh on each occasion sampled. Greek frozen yogurt is also available, and the pro tip here is to ask for the frozen treat with bits of baklava mixed in and honey drizzled on top. The result is a dessert with an appealing combination of contrasting textures in a single package.
One other dessert is the loukoumades, small donuts with nuts and sweet syrup. Drinks include a soda fountain and bottled sparkling water from Greece, as well as a selection of domestic and Greek beers. Just as the Newhart finale involved the Vermont town inhabited by Larry, Darryl, and Darryl being bought by Japanese investors, the Nick the Greek chain has recently been acquired by a large Jack in the Box franchisee. Despite this, the three Nicks are still running the company, so there is hope that gyros and souvlaki will remain in downtown Phoenix.
11 W. Washington St. #120, Phoenix AZ 85003
https://www.nickthegreek.com
PHX Rail Food 