There’s something about the name Jimmy that suggests a finely calibrated balance between naughty and nice. Not as formal as James and not as down-to-earth as Jim, Jimmy falls in between, suggesting familiarity with the prospect of a little mischief. Think of the eponymous character in the Seinfeld episode The Jimmy who seems normal enough at first but then constantly talks about himself in the third person. The duality of Jimmy is reflected in Bad Jimmy’s, which combines burgers, rock-and-roll attitude, cocktails, and culinary creativity.
This particular Jimmy is located in downtown Phoenix four blocks from the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. The location on Pierce Street was previously home to the Breadfruit, a beloved Jamaican restaurant, and its companion Rum Bar. Bad Jimmy’s bears no resemblance to those two places and instead reuses the renovated space with its own unique approach. Somewhere during the transition from one identity to another, a bike rack right in front of the property was lost, but plenty of other places to lock up are found around the corner on First Street.
Bad Jimmy’s has two entrances on Pierce, one labeled “burgers” and the other “bar,” but both lead to a shared space with only a counter and shoulder-height wall between them. For burgers, sides, desserts, and non-alcoholic drinks, orders are placed at the burger counter. Cocktails and adult beverages are procured at a separate bar counter. There is an overhead menu, but with confusingly similar names like classic double and double burger on it, a better approach for first-timers is to read the printed menus found on the countertop before placing an order.
Whether reading overhead or looking down at the menu on the counter, customers place their orders and receive a numbered tent before choosing a seat at the tables, the bar, or one of several counters. The interior is full of cheeky decor, such as the number 69 tent displayed over the bar near a poster for the Bad Brains, a band whose blend of hardcore punk and reggae was as eclectic as the food at Bad Jimmy’s. The music reflects the decor and can be loud, but the patio in the back alley behind the restaurant offers a quieter environment during mild weather.
The succinct menu is focused on smashburgers, ground beef patties pressed onto a griddle with enough force to meld them with their toppings. The result is a sheet of amalgamated flavors housed within a bun. The subtle distinction between the double burger and the classic double lies in two aspects: onions and condiments. Both involve two pressed patties, pickles, and American cheese, but the double burger uses griddled onions and “not so secret” sauce (really Thousand Island dressing) while the classic double relies on raw onions, ketchup, and mustard.
Beyond that duo, the menu has two other consistent items: an LA Burg, a version of the classic California burger with thin slices of pastrami over a single smashed patty with pickles, mustard, onions, and American cheese. In this case, as with many of the specials, the halves of the bun are inverted to signify that something is different about this burger. Where’s the Beef is a vegetarian burger which is not smashed and lands somewhere between falafel and a black bean burger. Satisfying as a meatless choice, it is the only burger here served in a sesame bun.
There is a “no modifications” sign on the overhead menu, which is frustrating because an easily omitted slice of American cheese is the only obvious obstacle in transforming this burger from vegetarian to vegan. Based on overhead conversations, it seems that some special requests are fulfilled if they are reasonable. For those willing to put the kitchen in control, specials are common, especially on weekends. Recent features have included a green chili burger loaded with toppings of bacon, Oaxacan cheese, and lime mayonnaise, and chilies of course.
Chicken wings seasoned with a dry rub also make frequent appearances, and gussied-up sandwiches of turkey or mortadella have also been featured. For sides, there are two main choices: crisp waffle fries seasoned only with a little salt and packets of ketchup or a slab salad, a variant of the popular iceberg wedge salad with bacon, chives, grape tomatoes, and Thousand Island dressing. The everyday dessert at Bad Jimmy’s is soft serve, offered in classic vanilla and chocolate flavors, as well as the option of a swirled combination of the two.
As comforting as this frozen treat is, when Bad Jimmy’s offers a dessert special, it is usually something that shows creativity and attention to regional ingredients in a way that defies all the usual stereotypes of a burger joint. Cheesecakes are common menu additions here on weekends, and a recent version celebrated the seasonal harvest of Arizona citrus, an ingredient that has also found its way into featured salads. Banana pudding has been given a twist here with the addition of miso caramel to the usual mix of smooth fruit and wafer cookies.
The bar at Bad Jimmy’s serves cocktails like a Como la Flor of tequila, jamaica, and lime flavors with a bit of sparkling effervescence. Since it’s all about contrast here, the drinks are served in actual glasses, as opposed to the disposable paper goods used for the burgers and sides. If the restaurant sounds like an odd mix of disparate elements, if often is, but somehow the combination works. With some aspects of its menu and atmosphere seeming like James and others like Jim, Bad Jimmy’s, named for the owner and chef, seems like the right fit here.
108 E. Pierce St., Phoenix AZ 85004
PHX Rail Food 