One of the most frustrating cliches heard about dining in Phoenix is the claim that “You can’t get good seafood in the desert,” or its variant, “Don’t eat fish so far from the coast.” Have people making those statements not considered the impact of modern refrigeration and transportation? Is there a mistaken assumption that residents of coastal cities are piscatorial locavores, eating only species caught in local waters? The reality is that most fish is caught in one place and eaten in another with refrigerators, freezers, trucks, and planes playing crucial roles in between.
With unsubstantiated beliefs about seafood so widespread and persistent, it’s always refreshing when a restaurant refutes them not with words, but instead through the quality of its fish-focused food. Chula Seafood does exactly that with both its longstanding location at Uptown Plaza, diagonally across the street from Central/Camelback station on the B Line, and tis newest site at the Arizona Center, near the Van Buren stations on the B Line and the 3rd Street platforms on the A Line. There are also two other Chula locations somewhere in rail-resistant Scottsdale.
Chula Uptown’s interior features some pictures and sculptures of fish mounted on its brick walls, as well as photos of the owners’ fishing boat in San Diego along the corridor leading to the bathrooms. The decor is restrained, however, without the kitschy overload that can characterize some seafood restaurants. Downtown relies on ocean blue images of marine life and trim evocative of nautical ropes for an equally subtle look. In both locations, the fish speaks for itself. Customers can make retail purchases, order food to enjoy on site, or perhaps some of both.
Chula operates on a fast-casual model with customers placing orders at the same counter where fish is displayed. While this may result in a line at peak times, it also helps keep costs in line, resulting in most of the seafood dishes landing somewhere between $15 and $30 in price. Diners receive numbered placards and then find a place at any of the tables in the dining rooms. At both locations, full service is available if one chooses to sit at the bar counter. At Uptown, bike racks are found right outside. At the Arizona Center, look for them along Third Street.
Chula’s menu is distinct at each location but with considerable overlap between the two. At both restaurants, there are appetizers, bowls, sandwiches, and entrees, but items from any category can easily fulfill any of these roles. At Uptown, platters of sashimi or grilled oysters can easily be shared. Downtown, a daily ceviche and onigiri sushi are among the raw bar choices. Chula’s clam chowder, New England style with a creamy texture and bits of bacon, can be enjoyed by the cup as an appetizer or side, but also serves as a hearty entree if upgraded to a bowl.
While a good chowder seems like an effective demonstration of a seafood restaurant’s capabilities, the same is true of the fish and chips. Generous slabs of cod are coated in a crisp coating that is slightly brittle on the exterior before yielding to a tender and most interior. The tartar sauce is enhanced with fresh dill, the coleslaw is light and slightly tart, and the chips are all at the same level, resulting in an immensely satisfying take on this classic. Fried fish is also available as tacos, both full-size and street-sized as part of a discounted happy hour menu.
A crispy fish sandwich is an indulgent stack with two fish patties in the bun dressed with iceberg lettuce and tartar sauce. A lobster roll is offered with an option for double protein, but this sandwich already has an incredibly generous portion of crustacean meat within the bun. It is served warm with drawn butter or cold with mayonnaise. Although the roll comes with a bag of chips, additional sides available on an a-la-carte basis include fries, chowder, rice, a simple salad, and a daily vegetable, which might at any given time be Brussels sprouts or broccolini.
At both restaurants, there are bowls that combine protein, starch, vegetables, and seasonings with a single vessel. At Uptown, a Mediterranean bowl has a base of greens topped with cucumbers, jicama, hummus, and whipped feta. Downtown, a teriyaki bowl is a play on the traditional Hawaiian plate lunch with filet of salmon (not marinated but with sauce on the side), sushi rice, and salad that carbsmaxes with a combination of both macaroni and potato. For garnishes and greenery, there is pickled ginger, raw shredded cabbage, and sweet pickles.
Downtown, there is now also a Chipotle-like option to build one’s own bowl with a customized combination of protein, starch, vegetables, and sauces. For anyone wanting a simpler approach in which the seafood speaks for itself, the “Pick Fish” portion of the menu is best. Diners can select an item in the display case and enjoy it with sides and a choice of sauce. Dessert is not an emphasis at either location, but some Noble chocolate chip cookies are sold on site, and ice cream shops are within walking distance of both locations for anyone wanting additional options.
Drinks include iced green tea and a tart limeade. The Downtown location is also trying something new with “dirty sodas,” a trend of combining popular carbonated beverages like Sprite or Coke with cream and flavorings. A small but effective selection of beer, wine, and cocktails expand options at both sites, and there are happy hour discounts for drinks such as a pineapple margarita. With its enduring location at Uptown Plaza and its new presence in the Arizona Center, Chula continues to debunk myths about seafood in the desert one fish at a time.
100 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix AZ 85012
455 N. 3rd St., Phoenix AZ 85004
http://www.chulaseafood.com
PHX Rail Food 