Pardon the language, but what has been occurring recently on 19th Avenue can most accurately be described as “enshittifiation.” Originally applied by Cory Doctorow to the degradation of online platforms, the term could aptly describe how this arterial street in Phoenix has missed the opportunity for transit orientation development. Instead of seeing intensive densification, strategic corners are being surrendered to convenience stores and fast food drive-thrus, often at the expense of local restaurants demolished to make way for them.
It’s hard to know the exact cause, but it may have a lot to do with the Reinvent PHX plan being adopted only as far north as Chris-Town with the rest of 19th Avenue left with outdated anti-pedestrian zoning. Regardless of the reason, when an independent restaurant manages to break through the suburban schlock, it’s worth celebrating. Tacos el Jefe, the latest in a series of taquerias to occupy a strip mall across the street from 19th Avenue / Northern station on the B Line, is one of those places that tenaciously offers an alternative to the creeping mediocrity.
Tacos el Jefe occupies a shoebox space in a strip mall on the northeast corner of 19th Avenue and Northern. Bike racks are found outside a larger building just to the north that used to house the Good Shepherd School for Girls. The decor is largely left behind by prior tenants. The walls are clad with corrugated metal and large images of luchador masked wrestlers. The menu is found over a small counter near the back where customers place their orders. A smaller whiteboard to the side advertised breakfast specials that are offered throughout the day.
El Jefe’s tacos are offered on corn tortillas with half a dozen meat fillings: carne asada, al pastor pork, pollo asado, cabeza, tripa, and birria. They’re sold individually, and three tacos are usually more than enough for one person, especially if they are paired with a side or fluffy rice or smooth refried beans. They are all simply dressed with cilantro and onions, allowing the meats to speak for themselves. The tacos can also be accessorized with two salsas provided in squeeze bottles: The green one is mild and somewhat creamy. The red one is fiery in contrast.
More complex assemblages are found among the restaurant’s burritos. The Mexicana is a hefty mission style creation with rice and beans and a generous coating of sour cream on the inside of the tortilla. The restaurant’s namesake El Jefe Phoenix burrito combines carne asada with rice, beans, guacamole, cheese, onions, pico de gallo ,and a California addition of french fries rolled within the burrito. A surf and turf burrito combines griddle beef with shrimp, and a burrito with any filling can be fried and topped with a choice of salsa, resulting in a “wet” chimichanga.
Equally impressive are the tortas. The Mexicana comes across almost like a chopped cheese with avocado, melted cheese, and minced grilled beef. The Del Jefe features al pastor meat and beans inside a telera bun. Other choices include a Cubana and a Hawaiiana, both incorporating ham. A birria torta contains braised beef with a side of consomme for dipping. The same approach is used with a trio of quesabirria in which the meat and cheese are placed inside tortillas, placed on a griddle until everything melts together, and then served with consomme.
For those who favor a more deconstructed approach, the alambre plates put the meat center stage on a platter where it is surrounded by grilled onions, slices of cucumbers and radishes, a whole charred jalapeño, and melted cheese with tortillas on the side, allowing the creation of tacos on demand. The El Jefe alambre plates mixes al pastor with bits of the pineapple used to tenderize the pork while the steak and shrimp plates both add bacon for a bit of smokiness. Additional menu items include quesadillas, nachos, and loaded fries with a choice of toppings.
Tacos el Jefe sticks to its focused mission and does not venture into dessert territory. For something sweet, a glass of icy horchata or jamaica is available. There are also Mexican sodas and bottled water in a refrigerated case near the counter. On a better version of 19th Avenue, places like this neighborhood taqueria would exist on nearly every block. Until city leadership and land use regulations catch up to the unrealized dream of transit-oriented planning in this region, Tacos el Jefe stands out and is worth supporting amid disappointing developments.
1810 W. Northern Ave., Phoenix AZ 85021
https://tacoseljefephx.com
PHX Rail Food 